What is the exhibition about?
The first part of the exhibition presents the birth of the diva:
We encounter the original divas, the divinely talented opera singers from the 19th century, and the generations they inspired. In parallel with the change in attitude towards femininity, power and creativity, these artists conquered the stage and the cinema screen while also fighting for equality. Though they were adored by their fans, they also faced criticism and scorn for daring to step beyond social boundaries. The thousand-faced diva was born.
Some of the items on display in this space:
- Adelina Patti, who, at the height of her power, was the second most famous person in Great Britain – after Queen Victoria. Patti was a smart businesswoman who negotiated her own contracts. At the end of the 19th century, the divas on the stage were worshipped as goddesses. Yet, behind the scenes, women’s creativity and their desire for freedom created no little discomfort.
- Ingrid Bergman’s costume from the role of Joan of Arc – the story of Joan of Arc has always been subtly rewritten over time to reflect the contemporary attitude towards women.
- Isadora Duncan’s dance performance costume embodies the liberation of the body, reflecting strong equality, femininity and sexuality. Duncan commented that “The free modern woman will be more more glorious than any woman that has yet been; more than all women in past centuries.”
- Elizabeth Taylor’s costume in Cleopatra – she was the first actress to ask for and receive a million-dollar fee for a role in a film. And you can also see the costume Marilyn Monroe wore in the 1959 film Some Like It Hot.
- Maria Callas was a goddess among modern opera singers, and the exhibition features the outfit she wore at the premiere of Norma at the Royal Opera House in London. Callas embodies the strength, talent and fight that are the hallmarks of a true diva who moves beyond her art and society to become a timeless icon.
The second half of the exhibition is about the reinterpretation of the word diva, and a reevaluation of the image of the diva through contemporary pop culture:
Since the 1960s and the era of sexual liberation and political activism, and building on the foundations laid by previous generations, modern divas have reinterpreted the term. Recently, the concept of the diva has exploded into the public consciousness across various branches of entertainment, and the word continues to fill the need to redefine the art, vocals and self-awareness of performers. In terms of symbolism: from unpredictable to creative, from aggressive to decisive, from compulsive to perfectionist and from rebel to epoch-maker. Modern divas push boundaries, shape their own worlds and expand the possibilities of self-expression. With their forceful personalities and bold creativity, these ambitious performers captivate the imagination of their audience.
Some of the items on display in this space:
- Rihanna’s dress, coat and mitre that she wore at the 2018 Met Gala, where the global superstar and billionaire businesswoman showed the world how far the modern diva has come. This look captures the essence of Rihanna’s magical attraction – a predisposition for experimentation and pushing the boundaries. Rihanna has also made a splash in the clothes branding sphere as an artistic innovator and active social stakeholder. This is also shown by another of her dresses that leaves everyone who sees it catching their breath. Rihanna received the Fashion Icon award in 2014 in a backless dress decorated with 200,000 Swarovski crystals.
- Adele made history in 2021 when she became the first person to simultaneously feature on the front cover of the American and British editions of Vogue. The Grace dress and bolero were designed by Vivienne Westwood and radiated a timeless brilliance. Her style has gradually evolved from a relaxed alternative look to sparkling elegance, though she has also maintained her approachable attraction – disarmingly engaging and modest, yet also bold, and with a marked British sense of humour.
- In the 1960s, Edith Piaf’s stage attire altered the fashion of the era. Piaf’s characteristic costumes featured the ‘little black dress’, also on display here, which became a basic item in the wardrobe of countless French women and influenced fashion across the world.
- Amy Winehouse’s dress from the Brit Awards ceremony in 2007. Amy had a unique character both in terms of her style and her stunning alto voice. She was the first female performer to win five Grammy awards in one go with her 2006 album, Back to Black. The record featured the song Rehab, which almost immediately brought her fame. She wore the dress with a beehive hairstyle and heavy black eye make-up at the 2007 Brit Awards, when she received the award for Best Female Performer.
- Whitney Houston’s dress, which she wore at the 1994 Grammy Awards. On of pop’s most defining women, she wore this Marc Bouwer dress on the night when she won three Grammy awards, including the Album of the Year, which featured the title song and smash hit I Will Always Love You.
- The ensemble worn by Billie Eilish at the 2019 Glastonbury Festival. From loose, casual and androgynous clothing, one of the most influential and pioneering female artists of her generation created a distinctive stage look in order to avoid putting too much emphasis on her body. Her colourful T-shirt and shorts were designed by Stella McCartney as part of a collection inspired by the Beatles’ iconic film, Yellow Submarine.
- Lady Gaga’s dress from the 2019 Golden Globes award ceremony was designed by Valentino. Gaga wore the breathtaking dress on display here when she received a Golden Globe in the Best Original Song category for Shallow. In 2020, Valentino named Gaga the muse and ambassador for a new perfume, continuing a tradition of collaborations that began with Elizabeth Taylor in 1985, when she released Passion, her extraordinarily profitable perfume.
- Björk’s distinctive dress, also from Valentino, and a mask designed by James Merry. The experimental Icelandic artist continuously recreates herself both musically and visually. This dress reveals Björk’s affinity with the dramatic and spectacular costumes that give her an otherworldly appearance on the stage. It is both an uninhibited spectacle and a suit of armour, while also presenting us with a vision from the future.
- Elton John This stunning costume was designed by Sandy Powell for the Sir Elton John’s 50th birthday party. The singer-songwriter reshaped pop culture with his unforgettable songs and extravagant style. For his 50th birthday, he drew inspiration from the court of Louis XIV. Elton’s huge curly wig was adorned with a galley ship that let out steam, while he was forced to travel to the party via a furniture delivery van due to the extent of his wardrobe. A diva is a diva both on and off the stage!
- Freddie Mercury’s clothes from an appearance at Budapest in 1986.
- Among many other outfits in the exhibition, the iconic dresses and costumes of another defining and world famous designer, Bob Mackie, who made clothes for Cher, Tina Turner, Liza Minelli and even Pink, are also on display. Throughout her unrivalled career, Cher continuously reinvented herself in each decade: as a hippie in the 1960s, as the queen of television variety shows in the 1970s, as a rock and dance diva in the 1980s and 90s, then more recently with her Las Vegas appearances and her starring role in the film Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again, typically appearing in the unparalled and exotic creations of Mackie. Here, you can find four glorious examples of his work. The famous flame dress of other defining Mackie star, Tina Turner, is also on display at the Divas & Icons exhibition.